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The other mountain is the famous Mount Everest , which ranks first on both lists. Nanga Parbat is also the second most prominent peak of the Himalayas, after Mount Everest.
The core of Nanga Parbat is a long ridge trending southwest to northeast. The ridge is composed of an enormous bulk of ice and rock.
It has three faces: the Diamir, Rakhiot, and Rupal faces. The southwestern portion of this main ridge is known as the Mazeno Wall , and has a number of subsidiary peaks.
It is split into the Diamir west face and the Rakhiot north face by a long ridge. Near the base of the Rupal Face is a glacial lake called Latbo, above a seasonal shepherds' village of the same name.
As a result of its accessibility, attempts to summit Nanga Parbat began very soon after it was discovered by Europeans. In the s, Nanga Parbat became the focus of German interest in the Himalayas.
The German mountaineers were unable to attempt Mount Everest , since only the British had access to Tibet.
Initially German efforts focused on Kanchenjunga , to which Paul Bauer led two expeditions in and , but with its long ridges and steep faces Kanchenjunga was more difficult than Everest and neither expedition made much progress.
K2 was known to be harder still, and its remoteness meant that even reaching its base would be a major undertaking.
Nanga Parbat was therefore the highest mountain accessible to Germans and was also deemed reasonably possible by climbers at the time.
It is sometimes referred to as a German-American expedition, as the eight climbers included Rand Herron, an American, and Fritz Wiessner , who would become an American citizen the following year.
While the team were all strong climbers, none had Himalayan experience, and poor planning particularly an inadequate number of porters , coupled with bad weather, prevented the team from progressing far beyond the Rakhiot Peak northeast of the Nanga Parbat summit, reached by Peter Aschenbrenner and Herbert Kunigk, but they did establish the feasibility of a route via Rakhiot Peak and the main ridge.
Merkl led another expedition in , which was better prepared and financed with full support from the new Nazi government.
Early in the expedition Alfred Drexel died, likely due to high altitude pulmonary edema. During the desperate retreat that followed, three famous German mountaineers, Uli Wieland , Willo Welzenbach and Merkl himself, as well as six Sherpas died of exhaustion, exposure and altitude sickness, and several others suffered severe frostbite.
The last survivor to reach safety, Ang Tsering , did so having spent seven days battling through the storm. In , Karl Wien led another expedition to the mountain, following the same route as Merkl's expeditions had done.
Progress was made, but more slowly than before due to heavy snowfall. All sixteen men died. One of the victim's diaries read "our situation here is not quite safe from avalanches".
The Germans returned in led by Paul Bauer, but the expedition was plagued by bad weather, and Bauer, mindful of the previous disasters, ordered the party down before the Silver Saddle, halfway between Rakhiot Peak and Nanga Parbat summit, was reached.
Heinrich Harrer , an expert alpinist, was a member of the SS Alpine unit. The unit practised on Eiger mountain in Switzerland in When the group returned to Germany, Adolf Hitler met with them.
In May , Harrer was selected by the German Himalayan Foundation to take part in a new expedition to the Nanga Parbat,  under the leadership of Peter Aufschnaiter.
Their goal was to scout new ways to ascend the north-western face. They concluded that the face was a viable route, but the Second World War intervened and the four men were interned by the British in Dehradun, India.
Some evidence of this expedition is kept in the National Archives of Washington, D. The expedition was organized by the half-brother of Willy Merkl, Karl Herrligkoffer from Munich , while the expedition leader was Peter Aschenbrenner from Kufstein , who had participated in the and attempts.
By the time of this expedition, 31 people had already died on the mountain. His descent was slowed when he lost a crampon.
Caught by darkness, he was forced to bivouac standing upright on a narrow ledge, holding a small handhold with one hand.
Exhausted, he dozed occasionally, but managed to maintain his balance. He was also very fortunate to have a calm night, so he was not subjected to wind chill.
The documentary film Nanga Parbat was filmed and directed by Hans Ertl , who participated in the expedition.
Buhl's climb was also later dramatized by Canadian film director Donald Shebib in the film The Climb. This route has become the "standard route" on the mountain.
The Kinshofer route does not ascend the middle of the Diamir Face, which is threatened by avalanches from large hanging glaciers.
Instead it climbs a buttress on the left side of the Diamir Face. Plus, see what some of your favorite '90s stars look like now. See the full gallery.
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